LFW Goes Green: How Is Sustainability Shaping The Runway?

A Framework for Change 

The BFC will begin adopting the Sustainability Requirements  framework developed by CPHFW, a comprehensive set of guidelines first introduced in 2019. This framework outlines Minimum Standards for brands to meet in areas like supply chain transparency, carbon reduction, and circular design. While the full implementation at LFW is planned for January 2026, this marks the first time NEWGEN hopefuls will have had to ensure their business model adheres to the updated programme.With an increased emphasis on sustainable practices, it’s clear the upcoming shows will likely reflect the initial steps of this transition.

One of the most exciting aspects of London Fashion Week is its status as one of the most pivotal moments on the fashion calendar, setting the precedent for what’s to come. However, this shift isn’t entirely voluntary. Increasing government regulations, consumer expectations and industry-led frameworks are setting stricter standards and pushing brands to act faster.

The British Fashion Council’s decision to begin adopting Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability framework—currently applicable to NEWGEN designers—is a prime example of how external pressures are shaping the industry’s future. With sustainability requirements tightening, brands aren’t just choosing to go green; they’re being required to.

Emerging Brands to Watch 

Designers like Patrick McDowell and Sevda London, both part of the BFC NEWGEN initiative, are already pushing these boundaries with their fresh take on sustainable fashion. Their debut collections this season promise to challenge conventions and set new benchmarks for eco-conscious design. Lining up alongside established eco-conscious leaders like Stella McCartney and Phoebe English, we’re excited to see how they will refine what it means to be both stylish and responsible in fashion today. 

Sustainability On and Off the Catwalk

It’s the collective efforts across the industry that are driving real change. From big-name houses to independent labels, everyone is playing a role in pushing sustainability into the spotlight, proving it’s not just a trend but the future of fashion.

Consumers are increasingly prioritising eco-conscious choices, with rentals, upcycling, and secondhand shopping exponentially increasing in popularity, with marketplaces like eBay and Vinted, along with rental services such as HURR Collective and By Rotation, becoming central to the pre-loved fashion movement.

Just take a look at brands like Ganni, the Danish It-girl favourite, who are showing the industry how to make impactful, long-term commitments to sustainability. Known for their effortlessly cool style, they’re proving that fashion-forward doesn’t have to mean future-backward when it comes to the planet. 

The brand’s four-year deal with polyester recycling company Ambercycle is a perfect example of how the fashion industry is moving beyond simply showcasing newness and focusing on real, impactful change. Committing to reducing their reliance on conventional polyester by 20% with Cycora, Ganni is making moves that prove sustainability isn’t just a buzzword—it’s becoming central to how brands operate. On and off the catwalk, it’s clear that sustainability is now firmly in the spotlight.  

For London Fashion Week, adopting Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability framework couldn’t be more timely, marking a monumental step in the right direction. The question now is, which of the ‘big four’ will be next to follow?

Find out more about the updated Minimum Standards, key actions, and the new framework here.